Hms carabiner for grigri. All of the options we recommend for use with the GRIGRI are aluminum because the rope does not rub and wear down the carabiner. May 20, 2022 · Without carabiners, climbers would be nowhere! Read all about what a carabiner is used for in climbing, the sketchy first models, and the history of the name Innovative, robust HMS biner with steel insert at the apex. For rappeling with a tube style device you will want an "HMS" pear shaped carabiner. The key lock nose ensures easy clipping and unclipping without snagging. Product details The Petzl GRIGRI Belay Device is a versatile and reliable tool with cam-assisted blocking, ideal for sport, trad, and top-rope climbing. I quickly searched for those and realised that Blackdiamond has an old and a new version for this specific carabiner. Jan 16, 2025 · GriGri & locking carabiner Pre-tied quad on 180cm triple length sling & 2 locking carabiners Sterling Hollowblock (prussik) & 1 locking carabiner Petzl Connect Adjust w/ clove hitched HMS carabiner pre-rigged, for personal tether and extended rappel BD ATC Guide & locking carabiner, for two strand rappel and belay backup (2) spare locking Nov 5, 2021 · Amazon. But, for some specialized uses, they still deserve a place on your harness. The screw cap can only be operated if the safety gate has also been opened. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Naturally you can also use HMS carabiners in combination with various belay devices (e. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. The screw locking is easy to operate even in icy or dirty environments. Its locking gate features a twist-lock mechanism to reduce accidental openings. Checklist included! Carabiners And Quickdraws All equipped with the Keylock system, Petzl carabiners come in different shapes, sizes and locking systems to meet a variety of usage needs. Its size allows user-friendly operation even when wearing gloves. Jan 1, 2024 · Do you think oval carabiners look chunky and old school? Well maybe, if that’s your entire rack. Designed to be used with the Petzl Grigri (but just as effective with any belay device), the Freino belay carabiner is a 3 ounce autolocking unit that has a secondary gate and basket - yes, you may call it a spur to establish techno-superiority - that provides additional braking. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. Introducing the biner block technique. This makes the carabiner stronger, but more expensive. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. Aug 15, 2019 · While any HMS/pear-shaped locker will work perfectly fine for belaying, six of the locking carabiners tested in this review are designed specifically for that purpose, and include features designed to increase performance while belaying. Luke CONCEPT SGL HC is an hot-forged light alloy HMS carabiner with screwgate, ACL system and special wear-proof hard coat anodizing. The screw locking Mar 17, 2022 · AN HMS SHAPE HMS stands for ‘ halbmastwurfsicherung ‘ – a German term which roughly translates to ‘half clove hitch belay’, referring to a belay system developed in the 1950s which used a Munter hitch knot (which is essentially half of a clove hitch). May 24, 2023 · Backcountry has a decent deal on the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG Carabiner right now but the reviews regarding its usage with Grigris are concerning. DESIGN: The Condor HMS Screw is equipped with classic screw lock gate with keylock nose gate. Mar 1, 2023 · To maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for safety and protection of the climbers. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. We set the story straight: why/when to use each carabiner shape so you can get the best carabiner for the job. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia)I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. 2 HMS locking Carabiners 1x to attach myself to the anchor via clove hitch, 1x if needed for scenarios like redirect lowering a climber on the GriGri/reverso, munter hitches, or rescue scenarios like MMO hitches, belay takeovers, or rappel ascension if I miss bolts (happened once, whoops). D-shape: This type of carabiner sends most of the load to the spine side. It’s way cheaper than the other cross-load protecting carabiners, the lock mechanism is really smooth, and I love that the anti-cross load piece does not close of the screw gate isn’t locked so the quick extra step of closing that piece makes it easy to set up This works perfectly fine for your grigri. Has anyone here used this specific carabiner with a grigri? If you do please let me know what model of grigri you have as well. When you pick up a Petzl carabiner, you can feel the high level of quality and craftsmanship! How to choose? Dec 12, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. With this carabiner just a click and safety is guaranteed one hundred percent. Prevents premature wear and burrs or sharp edges. It combines the advantages of both a steel carabiner and an aluminium carabiner. You can’t cross load this carabiner, and it is super helpful when lowering heavy climbers cuz you can easily add friction to the rope by passing it through the side. Apr 27, 2021 · The Mega Jul is a little finicky — it behaves best with certain carabiners (beefy HMS belay ‘biners work best), and it takes some getting used to. What carabiner will stop this? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. However, because the rope never touches your carabiner Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. My old harness also had a very wide belay loop, which made the GridLock sit very awkwardly on it, since the bottom of the biner was narrower than the harness. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. The GridLock’s isolation feature intuitively captures the belay loop and prevents cross-loading. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A Keylock Nose reduces the chances of rope snagging considerably Condor is a big HMS carabiner that responds to the new trend of safety. My partner and I both noticed that the carabiner would cross load on occasion when the screw gate became caught on the belay loop. Crossloading basically went away when I stopped using an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. Sep 15, 2020 · – Best Belay Carabiner – Mammut Smart HMS – Best Belay Carabiner For GriGri – Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock – Best Budget Belay Carabiner – Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Why Is Carabiner Shape Important? The HMS or Pear-shaped biner (essentially the same thing) has one smaller end and one larger/wider end. Jul 17, 2022 · Black Diamond GridLock super popular Belay Carabiner paired with Petzl GriGri raises a lot of questions and arguments amongst Climbers. Our team of climbing experts Naturally you can also use HMS carabiners in combination with various belay devices (e. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. The orange marking is Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. This article recommends some of them. We are concerned about hindering the camming action. See full list on climbernews. The Classic HMS Screwgate is a medium-size versatile pear-shaped carabiner. Spring bar holds carabiner in place when belaying to prevent cross loading H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight Steel insert prevents premature wear from rope friction or bolt hangars Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Some of the things you’ll find in my pack : - med kit - water 💗 - slings for anchors (120 / 180 / 240) - D carabiners, HMS carabiner for rappel - belay (Grigri) and rappel device - alpine slings and long draws to extend - rack of Fat Cams @metoliusclimbing - rack of Power Cams @metoliusclimbing - rack of misc cams - big cams! Climbing Technology - Concept Sgl HC Screw Gate + Spring - HMS carabiner Free delivery to UK from £75 - Buy online now! 100 Day Return Policy Dispatch within 24h Expert advice The Classic HMS Screwgate is a medium-size versatile pear-shaped carabiner. It is suitable for constructing belay stations and for belaying using an HMS knot or belay device; it allows the rope to run smoothly and reduces wear. Ideal for belaying, rappelling or anchors, the hot-forged Black Diamond RockLock screwgate carabiner features a redesigned spine for better handling and a larger rope-bearing surface for durability. It is ideal for use as a central carabiner for anchoring as it is particularly robust and durable. OK, alpha-gear-geeks, your carabiner has arrived. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In The belay carabiners, are screw lock carabiner or with automatic closing (can be double or triple movement) to which a bar has been added in the lower part of the carabiner to which the service ring of your harness will be passed: in this way you can be sure that your belay device will always work in the correct position! In this part of our online shop you can find only a part of the Patented technologies make our equipment a safe choice for the climbing gym and out on the rocks: from climbing harnesses to carabiners, belay devices, slings and helmets. I recommend the petzl attache over BD offerings for that. Make sure that the rope is correctly oriented in the grigri. What remains is double safety with easy handling. Talk about Carabiners are the unsung heroes of climbing. Sep 25, 2018 · Basically, it’s a perfect match for your PAS (personal anchor system). Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia)It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. Information on which devices are compatible with your carabiner can usually be found in the instruction manual. May 15, 2019 · About this item SAFETY: Independent, internal wire gate prevents carabiner from rotating and guards against release from belay loop with weight limit of 25KN for major axis, and at 7KN for minor axis and a twist locking gate. This can lower the strength of the carabiner. However, because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or most other similar assisted braking devices), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. I just bought the Mammut Smart HMS Carabiner to use with my GriGri and I love it. Explore key product details to make sure you get the best fit for your needs. Jan 28, 2023 · Another belaying carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock has everything you need to support yourself and your fellow climbers. The thumb loop is an intuitive way to unlock the device, but it requires a new technique for feeding slack. The internal gate locks in the right direction and therefore it prevents upward release. g. It starts with a Type H or HMS connector designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. GriGri). It’s essentially a d-shaped locker with a bigger basket. They get beaten to a pulp and still save thousands of lives each and every day without receiving the slightest bit of gratitude or appreciation for their wonderful form and function. It was so common I bought a belay master crab specifically for the Grigri to prevent this. The orange marking is Mar 16, 2025 · The HMS carabiner is a type of climbing equipment that plays a crucial role in enhancing safety during climbing activities. Having trouble with my gri gri crossloading. I personally use the BD gridlock and would recommend any HMS biner with a locking feature like the DMM belaymaster. The Classic HMS Screwgate is a medium size versatile pear shaped carabiner. Contrary to popular belief, a carabiner is not just there for you to clip your water bottle to the outside of your pack, your keys to your belt loop or your dog’s Our revolutionary, patent-pending belay biner design that solves the orientation issue—never deal with a shifting, cross-loaded belay carabiner again. The further development of our popular safety carabiner impresses with an improved construction, higher breaking load and less weight. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. What ‘da heck is that, you might be saying? If you don't speak German, that’s an excellent question. Perfect for climbers of all levels, it combines functionality and durability for various climbing styles. Aug 30, 2023 · HMS locker: not needed with a Grigri . « Asymmetric D-Shaped locking carabiner: The Sm’D is an almost perfect hybrid between a pear-shaped carabiner and a d-shaped carabiner. When using it, there is no need to rech Mar 6, 2022 · The issue with carabiners and grigri belay devices is that the carabiner will often slide and then cross load the device. Shop Mammut Smart HMS 2 Screwgate Carabiner at Public Lands. Big D-shape carabiners are called Offset-D Oval: This type is the cheapest. Here are our in-depth reviews! Wahl des Karabiners zum Verbinden eines GRIGRI oder NEOX mit dem Gurt Warnhinweis Lesen Sie die Gebrauchsanweisungen der Produkte, um die es in diesem Tech Tipp geht, aufmerksam durch, bevor Sie diesen zu Rate ziehen. The carabiner is equipped with an independent internal wire gate which prevents the carabiner from rotating and guards against unwanted release from a belay loop. Its unique pear-shaped design allows for a wider gate opening, making it Innovative, robust HMS biner with steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar to prevent it from twisting . The key lock nose en. Ideal for use with EDELRID belay devices. May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. Oh, by the way, it’s pretty ideal for your GriGri too. But we're not concerned about the forces breaking the carabiner, device, or harness belay loop. But when the rope is slack, the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned. Feb 17, 2022 · HMS carabiner with safety mechanism against accidental cross load. Dec 15, 2021 · Attach the grigri to the anchor’s master point with a locking carabiner. com When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. Aug 18, 2017 · The HMS Bulletproof FG is an innovative and robust HMS carabiner with a steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar to prevent cross loading. If climbing or rappelling with a tubular belay device like an ATC or other device that uses a carabiner for friction, you could consider using a stainless steel carabiner. Petzl GriGri and screw-lock carabiner: an unmissable offer! The most popular of the belayers for climbing paired with a screw-lock carabiner at an absolutely crazy price! Feb 2, 2022 · In practice, I have found my grigri is a lot more prone to moving around the carabiner and cross loading compared to any "manual device" (sticht plate, tuber, ATC, ATC Guide and Pivot). The Workhorse Screwgate carabiner is the strongest Mammut carabiner and one of the most robust models on the market. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. The special offset shape of the HMS carabiner allows a climber to use the Munter Hitch for belaying without the rope getting stuck or jammed. Its safety is its best feature. Attach a second locking carabiner to the anchor in a position above the grigri. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. When using it, there is no need to rech 6 days ago · Our Petzl GriGri belay device instructions warn against using HMS carabiners for fear that they become cross-loaded. Jun 13, 2011 · In reply to ashley1_scott: No, hms biners are wide at the top for taking multiple clove hitches or having more space for the running rope when belaying with a normal device. New one has no i-beam profile at the top of the carabiner so that it is less likely to create sharp edges when the rope wears out the material. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight Pretty much any locking biner works for a grigri because of the low profile attachment point. Here's why using one as your main belay carabiner is a good choice. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia)I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. The opening width and volumes are large enough to accommodate several ropes, slings and knots. Feb 24, 2018 · Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple Lock FG Carabiner INNOVATIVE HMS CARABINER WITH STEEL INSERT Innovative, robust HMS biner with steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar to prevent it from twisting. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. Its ergonomic design ensures smooth rope handling and controlled descents, offering enhanced safety and ease of use. Thank you! curious why you would use a bulletproof with a grigri? I began using my gri gri 2 with a Black Diamond Rock Lock HMS carabiner because it was the same one that I used with my ATC. . GriGri with a Petzel Freino for the carabiner if you have the money. com : EDELRID HMS Bulletproof Locking Carabiner : Sports & OutdoorsAbout this item Spring bar holds carabiner in place when belaying to prevent cross loading Keylock closure mechanism for optimum handling when clipping and unclipping H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight Steel insert prevents premature wear from rope friction or bolt hangers Oct 12, 2023 · You have options: Pear/HMS, Offset D, D, Oval, Semi-Circle, 3D, Oval Link. This belay system requires a large, pear-shaped carabiner with a durable, rounded top bar to allow the rope/s plenty of space to move Ideal for use with belay devices, the innovative, robust Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG carabiner has a steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar that prevents it from twisting. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Many climbers always reach for a large, pear-shaped “HMS” locking carabiner for any sort of belay task. Thank you! curious why you would use a bulletproof with a grigri? Jan 12, 2013 · I began using my gri gri 2 with a Black Diamond Rock Lock HMS carabiner because it was the same one that I used with my ATC. The shape is actually weaker than a standard d shape. This means that the belayer can focus his full attention on climber to I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. 3,242 likes, 262 comments - alpinesavvy on August 30, 2023: "HMS locker: not needed with a Grigri . The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof is our favorite for belaying with an ATC-style device, or rappelling. Make sure that there is nothing nearby that the grigri could jam against that would stop it from properly braking. With a gri gri the carabiner doesn't even touch the rope, its simply a connector between harness and gri gri. Unsurprisingly, Petzl says not to use an HMS The Sm'd is small, doesn't do dumb, and has a tiny hole if you'd like to tether your Grigri to the carabiner. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. Also makes a lighter alternative to a steel carabiner for top-roping. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. A guide to climbing carabiners: Find out more about types of carabiners, closure systems, load type & how to use them. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 Ocun Condor HMS and Blackdiamond Gridlock are two available option in my local store. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. Sep 20, 2018 · Many books refer to an “HMS” carabiner. If you read the manual you will get even more confused. Naturally you can also use HMS carabiners in combination with various belay devices (e. How to set up for a retrievable rappel with a single rope and a GriGri. asauwji cdwzhe zqyfhji ybr tno xevqegm jlpu hrvrhd zied abgp
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